Where to find Saint Lucy’s Eyes near Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio?
There is one activity that almost inevitably becomes part of our walks along the beaches of Southern Corsica: searching for Saint Lucy’s Eyes. Carole particularly loves looking for them, and as soon as she finds one, everyone suddenly starts examining the sand a little more carefully. This small pearly disc, recognisable by its beautiful spiral, is not actually a shell but the operculum of the rough star shell, a Mediterranean mollusc. In Corsican tradition, the Saint Lucy’s Eye is considered a symbol of good luck and protection against the evil eye. citeturn0search0turn0search3 Between Porto-Vecchio, Sotta and Bonifacio, you can be lucky enough to spot them on several beaches. But for us, one place clearly stands out: Balistra.
Balistra, our favourite beach for finding Saint Lucy’s Eyes
We have already written about Balistra Beach for its wonderfully wild character. Located north of Bonifacio, it takes a little effort to reach, as the final part of the journey follows an unpaved track. But that is also part of its charm. Once on the beach, our advice is to turn left when facing the sea and walk towards the far end. This is where we like to set up our parasol, far enough from the main access point to enjoy a little more peace, even in the middle of summer.
And this is also the part of Balistra where Carole has become accustomed to searching for Saint Lucy’s Eyes. Apparently, we are not the only ones to have noticed that they can be found here. Travellers have mentioned Balistra for years as one of the beaches around Bonifacio where they have had particularly good luck finding them. citeturn0search2
Their presence becomes even more interesting when you put on a mask. To be clear, Balistra is not our favourite beach for snorkelling. The seabed itself is relatively plain and there are much more spectacular places around Bonifacio if your main aim is to watch fish. What is amusing here, however, is the large number of hermit crabs wandering around in their borrowed shells. You can watch these tiny shells apparently walking across the seabed, which is surprisingly entertaining once you start paying attention to them.
After a windy day, look carefully along the water’s edge
Balistra has another distinctive feature: it can be very windy. That may be a disadvantage if you are looking for perfectly calm water, but it can make the search for Saint Lucy’s Eyes even more interesting. When the sea has been stirred up, the sand and small fragments from the seabed are moved around and some are eventually deposited along the shoreline.
That is often when the search becomes particularly enjoyable. You do not need any special equipment. A mask, a little patience and a sharp eye are enough. Look through the first few centimetres of water where the waves meet the sand, or simply walk slowly along the shoreline. At Balistra, it is not unusual to suddenly notice a small pale, rounded shape standing out against the sand. Pick it up, turn it over and you may discover the characteristic spiral of a Saint Lucy’s Eye.
Part of the pleasure is never knowing whether you will actually find one. Some days, nothing appears. On others, the first one is spotted almost immediately and everyone suddenly wants to find another. It becomes a genuine little treasure hunt, particularly with children, and it changes the way you look at the beach. Instead of simply admiring the scenery, you start watching the waves, examining tiny shells and noticing the movement of the sand and all the discreet marine life we usually walk past without seeing.
There is, however, an important principle to keep in mind. This should never become an intensive collection, and living molluscs should of course be left alone. Rules concerning the collection of natural material can vary depending on the beach and whether you are within a protected area, so local regulations should always be respected. For us, the pleasure lies in looking for a few Saint Lucy’s Eyes naturally washed ashore by the sea, perhaps keeping a small souvenir where this is permitted and leaving the rest untouched. The element of chance is precisely what makes finding one so special.
A little Corsican treasure to look for from Bella Sotta
Searching for Saint Lucy’s Eyes in Corsica reflects quite well the way we like to spend our holidays at Bella Sotta. Not every day needs to involve a major excursion or spectacular activity. Sometimes a wild beach, a mask and a few quiet hours are more than enough.
From our villa in Sotta, Balistra is particularly easy to reach because it lies towards Bonifacio, without requiring you to cross the busiest areas around Porto-Vecchio. We can leave in the morning, reach the beach, walk to its far end and settle under the parasol. While some of us read or swim, Carole will usually start examining the water’s edge. And it rarely takes long before everyone else joins the search.
It is also a lovely way to discover a more discreet part of Corsican culture. The Saint Lucy’s Eye has long been associated with island traditions and today it can be seen in many Corsican jewellery shops, set into pendants, bracelets, rings and earrings. citeturn0search1turn0search4 But one discovered by yourself at the water’s edge inevitably has a different meaning. It becomes associated with a particular beach, a day, the light, the wind and that little moment when someone suddenly calls out: “I found one!”
Perhaps that is ultimately what we enjoy most about the search. A Saint Lucy’s Eye is not simply something you collect. You have to take the time to find it.
Getting there from Bella Sotta
From Bella Sotta in Sotta, allow approximately 25 to 30 minutes by car, including the unpaved track leading down towards the beach. When looking for Saint Lucy’s Eyes, we like to walk towards the far left-hand end of Balistra when facing the sea, which is also the part of the beach where we usually settle for the day.
Days when the sea has been slightly stirred by the wind can be particularly interesting, as the waves move the seabed and carry small natural fragments towards the shore. Take a mask and simply look through the shallow water, without disturbing the seabed or touching living animals. Then let chance do the rest. From a villa rental in Southern Corsica located between Porto-Vecchio and Bonifacio, it is an easy outing to improvise and a particularly enjoyable one with children. And if you return to Bella Sotta with a little Saint Lucy’s Eye found at the water’s edge, it may become one of the simplest and most personal souvenirs of your stay in Corsica.